Tested Yarn Options for the PetiteKnit Novice Sweater – Chunky Edition
Also including the Novice Cardigan – Chunky Edition and Sunday Sweater, all based on the same 14 stitch gauge
Why I started testing these yarns
I’ll be honest, this started with me.
I really wanted to knit the Novice Sweater, but the yarns used in the pattern aren’t ones we stock. They’re not always easy to get in New Zealand (or Australia), and they’re not always the best fit for how we actually live and wear knitwear here.
So I started testing.
I wanted to find yarns that were:
- readily available
- suited to our climate
- and actually enjoyable to knit and wear
But once I started, I realised this wasn’t just about me.
A lot of people:
- don’t want to hold two strands together
- don’t love mohair or anything too fluffy
- want something more structured, or more drapey
- or need to keep things within a certain budget
So this guide is a collection of what I’ve tested so far, what worked, what didn’t, and how they all feel when knitted up.
I'm always tesing so if tese cobos don't work for you, I may hav others up my sleeve!
The patterns this applies to
This guide focuses on patterns that all sit around the same chunky gauge:
- Novice Sweater – Chunky Edition
- Novice Cardigan – Chunky Edition
- Novice Cardigan Junior – Chunky Edition
- Sunday Sweater
All of these sit at:
14 stitches per 10cm on 7mm needles (It's 6.5 for a few as I tested))
That’s the key thing that links them.
The row gauge varies slightly, but because these are knit top-down and measured as you go, it’s the stitch gauge that really matters for fit.
How gauge works (in simple terms)
When you’re testing, always do your gauge swatch using the body needle size, not the ribbing needle.
For example, on the Sunday Sweater:
- 6mm is used for ribbing (neck, cuffs)
- 7mm is used for the body
👉 Your swatch should be done on the 7mm (or whatever you’re using for the body)
That’s the fabric that determines the size of your garment.
How to work out how much yarn you need
If you’re not using the exact yarn in the pattern, this is how to figure it out.
Step 1 — Find the original yarn details
The pattern will tell you:
- how many grams you need
- and how many metres are in each ball
Example (size M):
- 50g balls
- 110 metres per ball
- 400g total
Step 2 — Work out how many balls
400 ÷ 50 = 8 balls
Step 3 — Convert to metres
8 × 110 = 880 metres
👉 That’s your target metreage
Step 4 — Convert to your yarn
If your yarn is 100m per ball:
880 ÷ 100 = 8.8 balls
So you’d buy:
👉 9 balls (or 10 to be safe)
If the pattern uses two strands, you do the same calculation for each yarn.
This method isn’t perfect, but it gets you very close.
Yarn options I’ve tested
Cleckheaton Verve + Setasuri
This is the one I’ve nearly finished my own sweater in.
I used Cleckheaton Verve held with Setasuri, and it’s been a really enjoyable knit. The variegated yarn gives a lot of colour movement, which makes it interesting without needing to think too much.
I used 6.5mm needles to get gauge.
The Setasuri adds a soft halo, which just softens everything slightly without taking over.
What it feels like:
- soft but still structured
- nice balance between drape and shape
- very wearable
You can also knit this using just the Cleckheaton Verve on its own. It works, but gives a slightly more relaxed, open fabric.
Good if you want:
- colour variation
- a soft finish without too much fluff
- something balanced and easy to wear
Crucci Nimbus (or Touch Yarns Mohair) + Sock Yarn
This is a really lovely lighter option.
I used a 12 ply mohair/merino yarn (like Crucci Nimbus or Touch Yarns Mohair) held with a sock yarn.
The sock yarn helps give structure, as mohair on its own can lose its shape.
What it feels like:
- very light
- very soft
- fluffy with a clear halo
- less dense than other options
It creates a beautiful blended colour effect if you use two different shades.
Good if you want:
- something light and airy
- a soft, fluffy finish
- to play with colour blending
Heirloom Merino Magic Chunky
This one surprised me.
It did meet gauge, which was great, and the Merino Magic Chunky is a much more accessible price point.
I got gauge on 7mm after blocking
What it feels like:
- structured
- heavier
- great stitch definition
Because it’s 100% merino at a heavier ply, it creates a more substantial garment.
Good if you want:
- structure
- a non-fluffy yarn
- a more budget-friendly option
Just be aware it will feel heavier to wear.
Alpaca Yarns Indiecita 14 ply
Indiecita 14 ply is a firm favourite in the shop.
It’s 80% alpaca, 20% acrylic, and incredibly soft.
I got gauge using 6.5mm needles, and it settled into place after blocking (it does drop slightly, which is typical for alpaca).
What it feels like:
- very soft
- very light
- airy and slightly open
It creates a more relaxed, floaty fabric rather than a dense one.
Good if you want:
- a single yarn option
- something lightweight
- softness without mohair
Tried but didn’t work — Red Hut DK + Halo
I really wanted this to work as a lower-cost option.
I tested Red Hut DK with Halo (alpaca), but together they came out too thick for this gauge.
It felt beautiful, but didn’t meet the required stitch gauge.
This could work for a heavier pattern, but not for this group.
How to choose between them
There isn’t one “right” yarn here.
It comes down to what you want.
Think about:
Feel
- soft and drapey
- structured and holding shape
Weight
- light and airy (alpaca)
- heavier and more substantial (merino)
Texture
- fluffy with halo (mohair / alpaca blends)
- clean and defined (merino)
Skin sensitivity
- do you like mohair near your neck?
Colour
- variegated vs solid
Care
- most of these are hand wash
Budget
- some are more accessible than others
If you’re unsure, start with how you want it to feel, then narrow it down from there.
Final note
All of these have been tested to help you make a confident choice.
I’ll keep adding more yarns as I test them.
And if you want help choosing, we’re always happy to talk it through with you.
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