How to Adapt Knitting Patterns to Suit You
Why patterns are a starting point, not a set of rules
When someone asks me, “Do I have to use the exact yarn in the pattern?”
My answer is always the same.
You have so many more options than just using the yarn that’s written there.
The yarn in a pattern is often there because it’s an easy match, or because the yarn company wants to sell that yarn. Sometimes it’s perfect. But sometimes it’s not available, not affordable, not the right feel, or just not something you actually want to wear.
For me, a pattern is just the beginning part of the journey.
It gives you structure. It gives you a framework. It shows you how something is built. But it doesn’t mean you have to follow it exactly.
Once you understand a few key things like gauge, fibre, and metreage, you can start playing a bit. You can turn that pattern into something that actually suits you.
And yes, there’s a little bit of maths involved. A bit of thinking. Sometimes a gauge swatch.
But that’s where it gets fun.
Why I Don’t Always Follow the Pattern
One of the biggest reasons is climate.
A lot of patterns, especially from designers like Petite Knit, are designed for completely different environments.
In New Zealand and Australia, merino works beautifully for our climate. But something like a heavy Icelandic wool can be far too warm for many parts of the country.
I live in Canterbury, so I can get away with something quite warm. But if you’re in Auckland or Northland, you’re just not going to get the wear out of that same sweater.
And I always want you to actually wear what you make.
Then there’s cost.
I would always rather you knit something you love in a yarn that fits your budget than not knit it at all because the recommended yarn is too expensive.
Then there’s feel.
If it’s scratchy, you won’t wear it.
If it’s not your colour, you won’t reach for it.
If it doesn’t suit your lifestyle, it won’t get used.
So we choose yarn that works for you, not just the pattern.
What I Change All the Time
One of the biggest changes I’ve made is knitting in the round.
I’ve realised I don’t enjoy knitting a front and a back. It feels repetitive. But knitting in the round means I can get into a rhythm and keep going.
I also love top down construction because I can see the garment take shape as I go.
So I now adapt patterns to suit that.
I also play a lot with yarn and texture.
I’ll hold yarns together. I’ll swatch combinations. Sometimes I start with the yarn I love and then find a pattern that fits it.
I nearly always change:
- yarn brand
- colour
- texture
- sometimes ribbing
- sometimes stripes
I lay yarns out on the floor to test colours.
I experiment.
And sometimes I get it wrong.
What You Need to Be Careful Changing
This is where we slow down a bit.
Because when the yarn changes, the garment changes.
If you swap from wool to alpaca, it will behave differently. Alpaca stretches more. It drapes more. It doesn’t hold structure in the same way.
Mohair adds softness and halo, but it needs support.
If you don’t understand how fibres behave, you need to be careful.
Gauge is another big one.
If you’re changing yarn, do the gauge swatch.
Yes, it takes time. But it saves you from knitting something that doesn’t fit.
Gauge helps you:
- check your yarn weight
- see how the fabric looks
- decide if you need to change needle size
If you meet gauge on a different needle size, that’s completely fine.
Also remember:
Not all yarns in the same category behave the same.
Not all 8 ply is the same.
Not all DK is the same.
Not all chunky is the same.
Some sit lighter. Some sit heavier. Some lean toward the next weight.
That’s where a quick test makes all the difference.
Save Your Swatches (This Helps More Than You Think)
If you’re testing yarn, keep your swatches.
Write on them:
- needle size
- yarn combo
- what you liked or didn’t like
Because you might not use it for that project, but it might be perfect for the next one.
I often grab odds and ends and just have a play.
It helps me understand what works together, what I like, and how different yarns behave on my needles.
Be Careful Mixing Yarn Types
If you’re adding colour or combining yarns, try to keep them similar in behaviour.
For example:
- superwash with superwash
- wool with wool
- machine washable with machine washable
If you mix very different types, they can wear and wash differently, which can cause issues later.
You can bend the rules a bit, but you need to understand what you’re doing.
When It Works Beautifully
I recently knitted the Louisiana Sweater using two strands of alpaca.
It’s one of my favourite things I’ve made.
It’s lightweight, warm, and feels amazing to wear.
Now I’m already planning another version in Outlaw Yarn for more structure.
Or maybe a blend of the two.
That’s where adapting patterns becomes really fun.
When It Doesn’t Work
One of my first sweaters was completely the wrong size.
Way too big.
At the time it felt like a failure.
Now it’s been felted and turned into a jacket.
And it taught me everything about gauge.
Final Thought
If you’re nervous about changing a pattern, that’s completely normal.
Start small.
Change the colour.
Try a different yarn that matches the gauge.
Adjust one thing at a time.
You don’t have to change everything at once.
But the more you experiment, the more confident you’ll become.
And that’s when knitting becomes something really special.
Because you’re not just following patterns.
You’re creating something that actually fits you.
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